A visit to Stump Cross Caverns in 1902

Descend the 60 steps into Stump Cross Caverns and you're following a route taken by many thousands of visitors over the years.

Stump Cross was discovered in 1860 by two lead miners. They thought they found an attractive seam of lead. Instead, their spades broke through the roof of an underground chamber.

Their loss was our gain. The caves were soon dug out, explored and made open to the public. At the time, show caves were becoming a feature of British life. Caves were no longer the preserve of bats and insects. They were slowly but surely becoming the tourist attractions that many are today.

But before the caves were properly opened as an attraction, cavers and walkers could still visit. The caves were just as beautiful – but the health and safety measures were a little, shall we say, lacking .

In July 1902, for instance, two cave explorers and mountain climbers paid the caves a visit. Their aim? To take a survey of the caves. In the process, they discovered a new cave and found that another cave was closer to the surface than had been realised.

One of the men, Fred Botterill from Leeds, wrote an engaging and humorous account of this survey in the Yorkshire Weekly Post (12 December 1903). It sheds a fascinating light on the early days of Stump Cross Caverns.

So, what did Fred Botterill and his companions find all those years ago?

Some things never change…

Fred Botterill's article begins like a present-day TripAdvisor review. Although Stump Cross Caverns is no longer "little known", it can still, as Botterill wrote, "justly lay claim to being one of the most beautiful caves in the country".


"It is interesting," he went on, "not only on account of its beautiful stalactites and stalagmites but also the complex ramifications of its passages."

The main difference is that Botterill was visiting a series of caverns – not a show cave as such. On his first visit in 1901, he and his companions were given the keys by a Mr Storey, who warned them: "Mind you don't get lost."

They soon realised why. "On all sides," Botterill wrote, "were branch passages, some leading in an upward, others in a downward direction… we soon began to get confused."

His companions decided to cut their losses. But Botterill was so impressed by a passage with a crystal roof and floor that he went on alone.

He soon became lost, wandering through the caves in a state of delight and disorientation: "On, on, on, along these seemingly endless passages and passing more beautiful curtains, and more wonderful chambers as I advanced."

When he emerged, he was convinced he had been down there for three hours – in fact, it had only been 25 minutes!

The experience made a strong enough impression on Fred Botterill that, in July 1902, he returned with Mr Jesper (photographer) and Mr Simpson (draughtsman). It was then that they took a survey of the caves.

New discoveries

Fast forward to July 1902 and the intrepid trio emerged from the caves with a plan of the "subterranean labyrinth".

In his description of the expedition, Botterill can't take his eyes off the astounding natural beauty of the caves. "I have never seen," he wrote, "so many stalactites and stalagmites crowded together in their dazzling whiteness in so small a space."

But his written account of the expedition is a testament to boredom as well as beauty. Sure, there were crystalline lakes, "dazzling whiteness" and percussive stalactites that, when struck, produced musical notes. But the survey also took hours . On the second trip, they left the caves at 3:10 AM, having started at 6:00 PM the previous day.


Perhaps best of all, they discovered a new cave. It was, said Botterill, "the chef d'oeuvre of Stump Cross", boasting a miniature crystal lake and a profusion of rock formations.

Like all good cavers, Botterill and his companions spent a good deal of time on their knees, crawling through narrow passageways and chambers. We have them to thank for shedding new light on the caverns all those years ago.

What's changed since Botterill's visit?

Remove the florid Edwardian prose and Botterill's account of the caverns' beauty could be plucked from an online review. Nevertheless, some things have changed substantially since his trip.

First of all, his visit was extremely unsafe by modern standards. Rest assured that present-day visitors will see the caves by electric light rather than candles.

Back then, visitors to Stump Cross would find bed and board at the Moorcock Inn . This pub, however, is a thing of the past, gone the way of penny farthings and antimacassars.

The cave network is also bigger than it was back then. Over the years, new caverns have been opened, including Reindeer Cavern and Heaven and Hell .

Another big difference is that transport back then was complicated, to say the least. To reach the caves from Leeds, Botterill had to take a train to Grassington, a bus to Hebden and a three-mile walk to the caverns.

The site itself was dramatically different: "a small hut by the side of the road" with "a flight of steps leading downwards to a little door".

Compare that to today's visitor's centre with its car park, cafe , shop and all mod cons. We know which we prefer!

The caves are now full-blown show caves. They're safe for all the family, well-lit and well-signposted. On top of this, the caves are now a venue for all sorts of events: from educational workshops for kids to cinema viewings , from stargazing to sound baths.

At Stump Cross, we're passionate about the history of the caves and the Yorkshire Dales more generally. Stay tuned for more forays into the past!


Looking for an unforgettable family day out near Harrogate ? Stump Cross Caverns is fun and educational, whatever the weather. Book your tickets online today.