Yorkshire cave mysteries: the lost caverns of Greenhow Hill
Caves have been around for millennia. Yet humans still haven't uncovered them all. Could there be more near Stump Cross Caverns here in Yorkshire?
Think "Yorkshire" and your mind might not immediately race towards underground caves. Yet God's Own Country is home to over 2,500 of the things.
This includes the 54-mile-long cave system known as the Three Counties (the longest in Britain), the 100-metre-deep ravine at Gaping Gill and a handful of show caves.
You might have thought that the world's caves had all been discovered by now. After all, we're living at a time when you can virtually visit a back alley in China on Google Earth. Surely we've mapped and surveyed all the caves there are to map and survey?
In fact, there are still plenty more to unearth. At the time of writing, in fact, we're digging out masses of mud and rocks to open a new chamber to the public right here at Stump Cross Caverns.
Over the years, there have been rumours and rumblings about other lost caves in the area – just up the road, in fact, in the neighbourhood of Greenhow Hill.
Greenhow Hill
Greenhow Hill is a village in North Yorkshire about five kilometres northeast of Pateley Bridge.
It's a place steeped in history. The name itself comes in part from the Old Norse word for "hill" or "mound" – a nod to the Viking presence in the area many moons ago.
In the 19th century, Greenhow Hill was a major player in the lead industry. It was, in fact, two local lead miners who accidentally discovered Stump Cross Caverns – but that's a story for another day.
You probably won't find Greenhow Hill in any history books. Its biggest claim to fame is probably the fact that Rudyard Kipling's father was minister at the local Methodist chapel.
To the caving community in Yorkshire, however, Greenhow Hill is a big deal – and it's all because of its lead mines and caves.
The caves of Greenhow Hill
Today, people come from miles around to see the limestone caves here at Stump Cross Caverns. But to the lead miners who once worked here, most caves in the Yorkshire Dales were little more than a dumping ground for mining waste.
As you might guess, these miners didn't exactly keep meticulous records, making the search for new caves harder than it needs to be.
Over the years, reports have emerged of several caves that have yet to be found, cleared and opened to the public. These reports are patchy enough, in fact, that we're not 100% sure the caves in question exist.
First, there's the legendary cavern that may contain a lake. We say "legendary" advisedly – only one man claims to have visited this cave, and he may have had an ulterior motive.
That man was Christopher Long – a key figure in the history of Stump Cross Caverns. He participated in the expeditions of 1922 and 1923 – both pivotal moments in our history.
Long was passionate about caves, but he was also something of a breadhead. He saw the commercial potential of the caves and wanted to get his slice of the cheese.
The story goes that Long discovered a cave with an underground lake. He told the then-owner about his discovery and tried to strike a deal. When his offer was rejected, Long claims to have sealed the entrance to the cave to spite the owner.
Since then, many people have tried to find the lake. At the time of writing, however, it remains a fable.
Mongo Gill Hole
In 1825, geologist John Phillips wrote an account of a cave in the area:
"One of the most interesting caves I ever saw was opened in the course of lead-mining at Greenhow Hill.
"In 1825, when I reached it by a miner's climbing shaft, it had much the appearance of a Franconian bear cave – dust on the floor, stalactites of great size and brilliant beauty everywhere [hanging] from the roof. It was, however, soon robbed of its sparry ornaments by tasteless visitors and greedy miners, and must now be mentioned as one of the lost wonders of Yorkshire."
The cave in question was reopened in 1959 by members of the local Craven Pothole Club. It can be accessed through Shockle Shaft, about 300 metres east of Stump Cross. However, most of the formations have been removed.
The Old Vein
In the 1850s, a local miner called Joss Pounder was allegedly paid five pounds to explore a cave. This cave was known as "the Old Vein", and it stood about one kilometre south of Dry Gill.
He claims to have found a "large" cave "with a great amount of water in it". Cave historians, however, dispute the veracity of this claim. Back then, five pounds was a lot of money – about nine weeks' worth of pay.
Perhaps the figure is wrong. Either way, the Old Vein remains a tantalising mystery in the annals of Greenhow's caves.
Joss Pounder's cavern
Joss Pounder's name resurfaces in connection to another lost cavern in the area – possibly located near the Old Vein. He described seeing "very old footprints and words written in the clay, thought to be in Latin".
He goes on: "The footprints had no heel prints and it was thought they may have been left by the monks in the fifteenth century."
The location of this mysterious cave is lost to time. Was Pounder a fibber? Or should we renew our efforts to find these lost holes?
Expeditions
Since the days of Joss Pounder and Christopher Long, several attempts have been made to uncover these lost caverns.
In 1942, members of the British Speleological Association started to dig. They didn't find any caves – but they did come across the mysterious sound of dripping water.
Some time later, a caver called Jack Myers suspected that a rising at Nape Well Cave in Trollers Gill could lead to lost caves connected to the old mine workings. The low entrance was dug out in 1967, and since then, many attempts have been made to dig out a flooded cave known as a "sump".
These caves are lost – but are they lost for good? We'll be sure to update you about any future expeditions.
In the meantime, why not visit one of the best-preserved and most beautiful caves in Yorkshire? Hidden deep beneath the Dales, Stump Cross Caverns is a feast of strange rock formations and winding, atmospheric passageways. It's quick and easy to book tickets online.
